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Tanzanite

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#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
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Stone : Tanzanite
Colour : Blue Purple
Item : #1257
Cut By : Doug Menadue, 2018
Design : Superb Ten Main Oval
Origin : Tanzania
Treatments : Heated
Weight : 11.82 Carats
Clarity : Eye Clean
Size : 16.84X12.17X9.33mm
Price : COMMISSIONED CUT

Comments : As tanzanites go, this is an absolutely spectactular gem! This beautiful stone has the classic deep royal blue with purple hues that really high quality tanzanites are famous for. I recut this special gem for a client who supplied the original stone. It was initially poorly commercial cut in the usual diamond checkerboard style "Portuguese" cut that so many gems are done in. When the "Portuguese" cut is done well it looks great however commercial cutting factories pretty much never do it well.

I have included pics of the original stone so you can see how it started out. If you look carefully you can see a big window in the centre of stone... this lets all the light and colour out. The other thing is that it's profile is very bulbous. And that there brings us to the rub... the commercial imperative that these factories operate under is to make the stone as heavy as possible because for them carats = $$$, the more carats the more they make. The problem with that mentality is that the finished gem is nine-times-out-of-ten plain ugly, ill-proportioned and disappointing.

The client requested that this tanzanite be recut to improve it's overall beauty, to close the window and keep the light and colour in the stone. As with most recuts of this kind, there is always going to be a loss in weight, it's unfortunate but that's the trade off. Generally I work on getting a return yield of around 66 to 70% and this depends on a number of factors such as how well shaped the original stone is, where the excess weight is positioned, how symmetrical the stone is, etc. I try to select a design to best fit the shape to begin with and this often involves adjusting and finetuning the design as I go.

In the end I finished up with a tanzanite that really sings and is far nicer then how it started off. A good result.

#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia
#1257, Blue Purple Tanzanite, Superb Ten Main Oval, 11.82 Carats, 13.16X13.11X10.41mm - A beautiful natural Tanzanian Tanzanite - Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems - WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Precision Gemcutting and Lapidary Services In Sydney Australia

 

Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia
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Stone : Tanzanite
Cut By : Doug Menadue 2017
Item : #1064
Design : Star Cross (Doug Menadue)
Origin : Tanzania
Treatments : Heated
Weight : 13.43 Carats
Clarity : Eye Clean
Size : 14.36x11.49x10.39mm
Price : RECUT FOR CLIENT - NOT FOR SALE

Comments : Recently I had the opportunity to recut a large tanzanite supplied to me by a client. The original stone was a catalog of everything that was wrong with a badly commercial cut stone*. It is a crying shame to see what is a beautiful piece of stone so terribly cut. What makes me even more disheartened is that this poorly cut "gem" is then sold to a customer (quite often a jeweller) for an exorbitant price as something "special". Customers are being taken advantage of all the time and are being sold gems which quite frankly are horribly cut and over priced for what they are. Customers have been convinced that heavier is better, that weight is all that matters! My goodness! How far from the truth that is. If folks are going to spend good money on an expensive "big" gem then they really must educate the eye and not be taken in purely by how heavy a gem is... you must take into account the quality of the cut and finish, otherwise, in all honesty you are being ripped off. I could go on and on about this but I'll save that rant for another day. I have included a couple of pics of the original gem for you to view.

However, in some cases the customer has the last laugh because that poorly cut stone is an excellent candidate for recutting and this is just such a case. Recutting any gem is a very specialised and delicate operation. Careful consideration has to be given to choosing the right design to best fit the shape of the original cut so as to maximise the return yield. There is no room for mistakes as there is only a very finite amount of material that you have to work with and adjustments almost always have to be made on the fly during the cutting process in order to cater for the inevitable asymmetry of the original cut. Some sides might bulge out more then it's opposite or the culet is off centre and slanted to one side. There are many things that are traps for the unwary or unskilled.

This tanzanite took some careful thought before I knew exactly how to proceed. I carefully selected a design of mine that I decided was a good fit. Luckily the tanzanite had good depth which gave me alot to work with but as you can see the crown on the original cut was very very low and I wanted to lift that crown up to get some action in the stone. A low crown and table on a gem is a sad thing... it has a dampening on the brilliance of a gem, kind of like putting a wet hessian sack on a campfire. The cutting proceeded well and the end result was stunning and I was blown away by the transformation. The colours now blended well and there was no longer a window for light and colour to escape. The sharp crisp facets and high crown splits the light and the brilliance and sparkle is dazzling.

In this case the customer definitely wins out! What they lose in weight they gain big time in beauty, brilliance and overall appearance. It is kind of like buying the most rundown house on the street and renovating it and by doing so doubling the value. The newly finished tanzanite is now worth considerably more then the original stone was. The old stone as it was would have been an embarrassment if it was set... the new one, well, geez just look at it! It is worthy of being set by the best jeweller in the best setting you could imagine. It is a stone that the customer can proudly wear anywhere. It is a gem that I am very proud to have been given the opportunity to respectfully and beautifully transform.

* A Catalog Of A Poorly Commercial Cut Gemstone :

- Sides and corners are not parallel and even. The top side is sloping down to the left and the top left corner is soft and slouched.
- Facet edges are rounded where ideally they should be crisp and sharp.
- Meet points are terrible and uneven.
- A big window aka "fish eye" in the centre of the stone. This is a big no-no in a stone as it lets light and colour escape out through the gem instead of being reflected back to the viewer. I call these "donut" stones.
- The polish is poorly done. You can see scratches on all the facets from the course grit they used.
- The table is a little wonky and not nicely finished.
- The facet patterns and the reflections inside the stone are terrible and uneven. It is a mess in there and there is no nice crisp clear facet pattern play.
- The colour is poorly blended and distributed.
- The culet does not come to a point, instead it is a short uneven keel.
- The height of the crown is way too low for a gem of this size.
- The pavilion is way too deep.
- The girdle is uneven and too steep and deep. It is not clearly defined and would be very hard to set in a jewellery setting.

Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia
Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia
Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia
Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia
Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia
Tanzanite, Star Crossed Rectangle, Tanzania, Star Crossed Rectangle Carats, 14.36x11.49x10.39mm, #1064, A very fine natural Tanzanite which has been cut in the wonderful Star Crossed Rectangle design. Doug Menadue :: Bespoke Gems :: WWW.BESPOKE-GEMS.COM - Finest Precision Custom Gemcutting Based In Sydney Australia

 

Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
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Stone : Tanzanite
Cut By : Doug Menadue, 2014
Item : #650
Design : Antique Round 1910 (John Broadfoot)
Origin : Tanzania
Treatments : Heated?
Weight : 1.6 Carats
Clarity : Eye Clean
Size : 6.5x6.5x5.5 mm
Price : SOLD

Comments : How about a bit of tanzanite love? Here is a sweet little tanzanite I finished the other day. I cut it in the Antique Round design which is a more classical style of cut, it is also a bit fuller then the standard round brilliant. This gem would be ideal as a ring stone and I think it would go really well with precious white metal. The colour is a violet blue and very beautiful. A very fine tanzanite gemstone.

Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650
Tanzanite, Bicentennial Brilliant, Tanzania, #650

 

 

 

 

 

 

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